La Ruta de Maya - Guatemala pt 6

Antigua, Guatemala

On the bikes, finally! After 2 weeks of exploring the amazing countryside of Guatemala, we are back in Antigua, ready to ride. We’ve met up with the rest of the group: Anna and Jenny from the UK, Mike from BC, our photographer Patrice Halley, and writers Andrew Findlay and Stephen Ripley.

I’m here in Guatemala to put together a new route for Sacred Rides. I’d heard stories from friends and from my local partners about the epic riding here. Now we’re finally riding, and I’m excited to find out how good it really is.

We set out on the bikes, towards Volcan Agua, for our first ride. Antigua sits at 1,800 m above sea level, in a bowl surrounded by massive volcanoes. To the east lies Pacaya, to the north Agua, and Acuatenango. To the west, Fuego. It’s an impressive sight, one you won’t find in too many cities in the world.

Antigua is a beautiful Spanish colonial town. Its cobblestone streets make for a rough start to the ride, but soon we’re out of town and heading up a dirt road, at the base of Volcan Agua. We’re riding through farmers’ fields; people are out working in the midday heat, tilling the dry soil (it’s 3 months into dry season). Avocado trees line either side of the trail; dry corn stalks dot the landscape.

We soon reach the top of the trail, with colossal volcanoes rounding out the incredible mountain scenery. Our group is tired from long flights and the altitude (Antigua is at 6,000 feet), but amped to ride. We drop in, 10 of us, in the afternoon sun, surrounded by Guatemalan villages, centuries-old Mayan trails, and Central American heat.

The trail is technical, with boulders and rocks lining the trail, but it’s stunning. Halfway down, a local Mayan man with a load of firewood passes us, giggling at our bizarre-looking contraptions. We pass him again several times, he continuing at his steady pace, us alternating riding with frequent photo taking. It’s scenes like this, interacting with the locals, that make me value what I do so much.

That night we have an incredible dinner at the Sky Café, on a rooftop patio overlooking Antigua. The mojitos go down like ambrosia. We finish up at the No Se Café, a brilliant little drinking hole next door, that looks like it’s about 300 years old. It’s full of history, and we do our best to add our own stories to the tequila-lined walls.

It’s another perfect day in paradise.

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The next day, we prepare ourselves for a big day. Today we ride the Cielo Grande (Big Sky) ride, high above Antigua. It’s a punishing climb to the top, over 800 m above Antigua. Most of our group opts for the shuttle ride to the top. Andrew, Matt, Luisa and I opt for the punishment.

It’s one of the steepest climbs I’ve ever done, but helped my occasional stretches of concrete, spectacular views of the valley, and children who run alongside our bikes, shouting “Gringo! Gringo!”

My lungs scream ‘stop’ about a dozen times on the way up, but I press on, fueled by pride and stubbornness. Luisa, our co-guide and a local Guatemalan racer, barely breaks a sweat. I reach the top about an hour later, spent but proud of our tenacity. The views are breathtaking.

The trail drops in through families’ backyards, and soon we are in thick jungle. The singletrack is smoother, but narrower today. The exposure keeps us on our toes; the trail keeps our adrenaline pumping. We drop through numerous valleys and cornfields; the volcanoes remind us constantly of where we are. We’re riding in the land of the Maya, and all of us are in various degrees of awe. Riding a mountain bike in a foreign country is undoubtedly one of the best ways to experience a country: you meet tons of locals, are usually off the beaten path, and have fun doing it.

We end up on the main road down to Antigua as the sun is going down. As the sun sets we race along this smooth road, with nary a car in sight. The thrilling descent brings us into Antigua just in time for dinner, ready to celebrate life once again.

NEXT POSTING: Lake Atitlan & giving something back